Cooking Like the Chef of BLT Market

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It's hard to imagine a more comprehensive book about salt than Salted: A Manifesto on the World's most Essential Mineral, with Recipes (October 12, ten Speed Press) by Mark Bitterman, the salt purveyor at the Meadow, an artisanal-product shop in Portland, Oregon. At 320 pages, it's as much cookbook as textbook, divided into three large sections: a history of saltmaking ("The Life of Salt"), a reference guide covering over 150 varieties, and some tips on how to salt your foods as well as some starter recipes.

I only know two things about salt: recipes usually call for the "sea salt" kind, and always, always put it on steak. the latter Bitterman confirms in his introduction, the former he debunks, sort of: What's often marketed as sea salt, Bitterman says, is really misclassified earth-mined crystals (take that, Morton). There are, according to the book's classification, seven major types of artisanal salt: fleur de sel, sel gris, traditional salt, flake salt, shio, rock salt, unconventional salt, and modified salt (whatever that means). though Bitterman claims to learn about several new salts a week, he includes detailed information on just about every one you could imagine, including flavor profiles and suggested food pairings.

<a href="http://www.esquire.com/blogs/food-for-men/laurent-tourondel-cookbook-review-091010tag:news.google.com,2005:cluster=http://www.esquire.com/blogs/food-for-men/laurent-tourondel-cookbook-review-091010Fri, 10 Sep 2010 15:37:24 GMT 00:00">Cooking Like the Chef of BLT Market

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Tagged with: chef • cooking • recipe • sel sel • steak tartare recipe • Tartare

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